Change in the Weather

I went outside this morning to put a load of trash in the can and was surprised to notice water falling from the sky. What?!? Ok, so it was a bit of overcast, but actual rain?? On and off all day today, so far.

Meanwhile yesterday I got the KTM up the ramp and into the back of the Ford, and “went around the corner” to Performance Cycle for a brake flush and new fluids, plus the transmission oil (Type-F ATF), and some other moto love. This would have been a perfect riding day with the weather like this but it will come again, and without brakes much of the utility of an off-road motorcycle is lost. Besides that I need to find some other decrepit ageing senior riders with whom to spend some trail-time.

Fork-Seal Holiday

Happy Father’s Day to all the dads out there, I’m not one of ’em. Hot days in between the oddly cold days – or maybe because it was a cold day – the right fork-seal on the R1100R up and took a baby-burp, spooging oil all down the fork onto the brake caliper and collecting on the wheel-rim. I caught it when my friend the plumber was over to inspect the irrigation valve-job.
It was purely weird because the bike had not been ridden in two weeks or more, was up on the center-stand with no weight on the front wheel, and no visible cause for such childish behavior besides garage poltergeists.
Meh. I really don’t want to go down to A&S in Roseville – I hate going to Roseville – but I need to see what’s up with this. These are not ordinary or real forks, with springs and damper-rods and valving. These hollow-tube sticks just hold the front wheel together down at one end, and hook-up to the handlebars at the other. All the suspension is done by a car-like shock-absorber on the tele-lever yoke.
So start taking it apart by pulling the right handlebar. Get out the magnetic tray to catch all the bolts, and off with the chrome beauty covers. Take pictures of everything so you can remember how it goes back together…
Mark the bolts because they’re not all the same length.
Off comes the handlebar and there’s the fork-top, underneath the rubber cap.
There’s the bolt that holds it onto the fork-triple-clamp-thing or whatever BMW calls it. It’s nutted down with a air-wrench to some torque…
There’s other weird doo-dads to record.
14.3mm is gonna have to be close-enough.
And my DeWalt impact wrench to break the nut free.
The sound of a *tink* on concrete alerts me to a hitherto unseen washer that discharged itself.
Remove the fork-cap doo-dads as you compress the fork and get it aside to slide the top-tube up and out.
As the guy on the YouTube video says, “I don’t care how %$#@ much oil you lost, you don’t need to go and add any since there’s no use for it besides filling up the tube.” Well OK then. It’s a little brown but it’s high quality synthetic and still very slippery.
And there’s at least sixteen inches still in the lowers. BMW calls for a whole imperial pint of the stuff and that’s just very…German of them.
Slide the dust-cover back down and compress tyhe fork against the air-pressure that probably caused the problem in the first place. Spin the little bleeder-screw with the hex-head to relieve the pressure and get it back up into the top-clamp. Nut it back up with the impact wrench when the other doo-dads are aligned.
20-Newton Meters of torque on these bolts.
Tighten the clamp to the windshield.
Replace the chromey beauty-caps and go riding.
UPDATE: But first clean-up the brake caliper and pads!
UPDATE-UPDATE: Yes it’s a weird fork with no forky-internal bits, just an oil bath.
Da Forks
Sixteen inches of oil is well above the top of the fender, so I probably lost about two inches (?) from the amount on the wheel and brake.
fork level
The Showa shock does all the suspension work, the oil in the fork tubes is for stiction.

Interarms Mark-X & R1100R Battery

The Gentleman’s Express wouldn’t start, so I un-gear’d and made my rounds of the gun-shops by F-150, to talk about hunting with guys who had hunted. Many positive responses and good feed-backs later I was at my local shop looking at an (60’s-era?) Zastava-action Mauser Interarms Mark-X in .243 with a fixed power Weaver K8 UPDATE: Weaver K4 – that had been around the block and out in the field more than a few times but still looked pretty. Interarms-x243It’s not as nice as this one at Cabela’s Gun Library, but has the same shape stock and is not nearly as expensive either. The old scope was clear and sharp and had a pretty wide field of view for our short-and-brushy shooting.
Interarms has an interesting history as former Cold-War CIA spook Sam Cummings was sort of the OG Merchant of Death, selling arms around the world and on occasion to both sides. One of his arms shipments to Batista (AR-10’s) was intercepted and captured by Castro. He became a British subject and moved to Monaco while running the HQ out of Alexandria, VA.
Anyhow I don’t have tine with CA’s stupid 10-day wait period to bring it up to Gunblogger Rendezvous-X and sight-it in to my eye-point, so I has a sad. Unless I get it first thing tomorrow morning and pick it up on the morning of the 20th before driving up to Reno – which could still happen…
UPDATE: Not gonna happen.
UPDATE: That’s not gonna happen, but never say never…
Sunday we had a fun time (and great food) at the Gun Club Picnic, and met some very nice people. The fabulous Donna and husband Bob, and Jean and husband ex-cop Bill were a couple of friends who invited us to sit with them, and we had a nice time chatting about all manner of things. I won ONE raffle item, a re-up to my Gun Club membership, but all my tickets on the S&W 9mm Shield didn’t pan-out. Oh well it’s to a good cause, the oldest and longest running gun-club in California.
Meanwhile after three days on the Battery Tender, the juice-pot still showed no signs of buzzy electron life, so I got under the hood and lifted the lid and removed the Yuasa 51913. It took a while because BMW (and all motorcycles, really) packages things tight, but I didn’t have to remove the entire tank, just un-do enough peripherality to lift up the ass-end — which took a while and a few screws and a 2×6 to figure-out. The juice levels are all below par and I want a gel-battery anyhow, let’s see if one can be found locally. NAPA or O’Riley’s are my main choices, or Mike’s Kawasaki might have something. There’s a LOT of small engines around here doing yeoman’s work in the field, from Husqvarna mowers to saws, to Kawasaki Mules and other quad farm-equipment, to watercraft toys, so I expect (hope) it shouldn’t be too hard.
UPDATE: Battery coming Wednesday.