The Shed

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Oh jeeze, it’s adequate but it’s…plastic. Gaah! I’m thinking this needs replacing, but the footprint is about right, however the headroom is not.
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It would be nice if there were some electricity: for a trickle-charger, a light, minor and minimal, not a spare-room thing – so I’ll have to talk to Jason and see what the requirements are like. The back-side is failing – it’s plastic after all. IMG_0235x750w
At least the plot is graded and more or less level, but the laid-down wood is breaking up.
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It would be nice if this were a more sturdy and sound structure, with concrete floor.
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I don’t want heat and a pot-belly stove where the cowboys can sit around the cracker-barrel spitting chew at the cows outside. But a more countrified architecture with a more barn-look would be cool, something with a raised-center and “shoulders” pitched off at shoulder height, like a miniature just for mower and some shovels and crap – and gain some head-room so I don’t take chunks out of my scalp on nasty plastic…
UPDATE: sketchy-sketch idea.
barn view 002

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About NotClauswitz

The semi-sprawling adventures of a culturally hegemonic former flat-lander and anti-idiotarian individualist, fleeing the toxic cultural smug emitted by self-satisfied lotus-eating low-land Tesla-driving floppy-hat wearing lizadroid-Leftbat Califorganic eco-tofuistas ~

15 thoughts on “The Shed

  1. A) Your local municipality may have some restriction on the maximum size you can erect sans permit and inspections, however, don’t let that stop you if you do need to go that route, as most of these demands aren’t that hard to meet.

    B) As FormerFlyer suggests, overhangs are your friend.

    C) If it were me, I’d be putting a simple set of off-the-shelf louvers in, just below the ridge on your gable ends and be done with the ventilation otherwise.

    Your sketch is starting your thought process on other stuff; you might try the plan and other elevations for proofing the concept.

    Good luck.

    • I’ll try another elevation. I just like the high-center type of barn-looking shed. I guess that’s called “raised-aisle”? If somebody like Tufff-Shed had a sale that might be very interesting too, but they mostly lack overhang.

  2. Decades ago, I built my myself a shed. I built it pier and beam, so it was all wood, including the floor. It was 10ft. deep by 8ft. wide, with the beams (treated 4 X 4’s) running length wise. I cut the bottom corners of the beams off at 45 degrees. Voila’, skis—thus rendering the structure transportable and “temporary” under code at that time. No permit required.

  3. Check the code for size limits on storage sheds. IIRC, below a certain footage, you don’t need a permit to add a shed to a property. Adding electricity may trigger permit reqs, though. Then again, that may not be the case in your county. Might be a good idea to document every step with lots of photos, just in case questions arise later on.
    ————————-
    I’ve discovered that code inspectors aren’t always knowledgeable about their job. A project that I’m helping someone with turns out to not be to code, yet the job has been checked more than once along the way. Unfortunately, it can’t be corrected. In fact, in discovering the problem, it turns out that the reason a correction can’t even be attempted is that an inadvertent code violation from an earlier yard modification left him with insufficient distance to his fence line to work with.
    The owner failed to do his due diligence as project manager, several contractors didn’t know, or care, that they were violating code, and I’m left wondering if a different inspector can walk through the gate and tell him to rip it all up. On top of which, he can’t use the yard as he expected to, since that use violates his HOA rules.

    • El Dorado County has all kinds of its own code requirements including garages and sheds to prevent willy-nilly hillbilly construction snafus and generate revenue for the County. The safest thing would be to buy a pre-approved ready-made unit and drop it onto a pad. Fortunately there are no HOA’s in sight, just the County.

  4. An option would be to pour a slab, and then build a wood wall/foundation maybe 24″ high to raise the plastic up for head clearance. Then you could plan a more expensive replacement for later. Along with that idea, consider checking around your area to see if anyone is tossing out an old wood shed you could bag. Get enough pieces, and you may be able to build a good one cheap.

    • Nobody tosses-out nuthin’ up here! I’m not sure I could lift this thing up without it coming apart, the UV’s have been killer. My neighbor mentioned that another neighbor had a couple roof trusses laying around in his back yard, I’m not sure how long they’ve been exposed to the elements or what kind/design they are, and my experience with used wood like that has not been real positive.

  5. I’ve seen big sheds that look like miniature barns. It looks decent, and without something close for scale, it looks like the real thing way back a ways.

    There are code requirements for running power to an outbuilding. Trenched conduit to start with, but how it enters/leaves the buildings is also covered by code. 12″ deep may be allowed in some situations, but you should just do 18″ for vehicle and digging safety. Requires a separate junction box at the house, plus dedicated breakers for all those circuits leaving. Those breakers should be GFCI types. Expensive breakers. Any conduit that appears above ground has to be schedule 80. Below surface, sched 40 is ok.

    • Good points on depth – I think it would have to be 18″just to clear the house foundation if I tunnel under. I put six of those breakers in the garage, my electrician prefers them that way, wired as a stub so they don’t cascade.

    • There’s barely enough room in the current shed for the 42-inch mower! Cowboys are my neighbors, they might just show up! 🙂 But I do like the idea of an extended roof or even a porch for my rocking-chair. 😉 And a cooler for beer if I’m too lazy to go around into the house..

  6. Even if you don’t heat or cool it, DO please install insulation in the walls, and use Tech-Shield (foil backed) roof decking, and possibly some insulation up there in the rafters.

    It’ll help in all seasons, and keep the temperature extremes in the shed from being so…..extreme. Which helps with the longevity of stuff stored therein.

    And even when you are working in there…..say, busting loose a mower blade to sharpen….might as well be a bit more comfy, right?

    Jim
    Sunk New Dawn
    Galveston, TX

  7. Those plastic sheds seem like a good idea, but never seem to look very good a few years on. I like your plan.

    I’ve got a very similar project lining up for my place here. First off I need to build a 16 by 24 deck off the back door, but when that’s done comes the project I’m not confident about. I have to pour about a 12 by 16 pad and put a nice shed on it. I’m trying to come up with some sort of design I can build that won’t just look like a cracker-box with a pitched roof on top. Thinking about trying to make it look like a little cabin, with the roof overhanging the door to make a little covered porch, and maybe put in a window beside it. I have no ambitions about electricity, but I share your desire for interior height.

    I’ve never built a shed from scratch, nor done any concrete work since I was a teenager, so I’m not hopeful about the finish quality. Still, should be lots of fun, and probably a whole raft of lessons learned before it’s done.

    • Roofs make a big difference! I like your idea of having some overhang and protection. As you can see in the pictures, the roof on this thing is just the fifth side of the box that keeps the rain and weather out. My notion of electricity is to dig a trench between the house and the shed-base/”foundation” and lay-in a conduit/pipe for some electrical cable that will tie-back into the house wiring. I may have to run it under the house foundation and come up in the crawlspace underneath.

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