Old Mauser/New Scope = Adjustments

My old buddy who’s escaped the wretched BayAryans and moved-in up The Hill, came down Friday morning with a set of 1″ Warne scope mounts. Interference

The problem being that, with the original low-low Weaver mounts on the Interarms Mark-X, the new (and bigger objective) Cabela’s .243 caliber-specific 3-12×40 scope had an interference problem (see right): the bolt handle would not rise and clear the much larger ocular ring.

Low-Weaver Mounts

So we set-to swapping the old low rings for taller ones with all the new gimmicks like torx head screws – and used a nifty $100 inch-pound German torque-driver of Pete’s that he uses on his air-rifle scopes, etc.   It measured 26lbs for the new torx-head screws to prevent tube-crushing.

After that and a bit of work with my vise on his AR flash-hider/muzzle-brake, we went to the Range.

Problem Repeated: Now I really  want to replace all my odd-sized and non-matching scope-screws with identical-sized torx head ones for uniformity. It doesn’t make any damn sense that so many AR fittings and scope-parts ALL have DIFFERENT size allen-head screws.

The Q/A asks, “Cabelas’ name is on the box but who is the manufacturer?” and the Standard Marketing Genius CabelasExpert064 Non_Answer goes: “Blah-blah…item number IK-714190, is made by a private label vendor exclusively for Cabela’s.” Yeh right, whatever. Another un-refuted but also un-verified answer from: State: Georgia, Age: 56-65, Gender: Male goes: “Meopta.” Looking on-line, another report suggests they are made by Burris. The box says “Made in China” – so maybe it is Burris.

After getting settled-in at the benches, during a cease-fire we set-up a target out at 100-yards and I proceeded to waste a bunch of shots trying to get on paper.
High-left, high-left, still high left. I ran the elevation click-arrows down until it stopped after just a few. WTF? The scope had run out of adjustment. Ok…let’s find the actual, physical center of this rig.
I undid the caps and we ran the Elevation erector click-click-click UP to the stopping point, counting all the clicks – fortunately it was easy because there was a nice witness mark on the tube and the clicks were indexed in five-click major increment hash marks. Then we ran it DOWN to the bottom and divided by half. Ostensibly that should be the vertical center. What happened is/was that the up-down/left-right arrows didn’t seem to correspond to the actual direction of reticle movement, at first.
So Then we went RIGHT with the lefty-righty rack-and-pinion projector (or whatever the hell you call it) to the stopping point counting all the clicks – and ran it back again to the LEFT and divided that number in half to approximate center. We went back and forth and up and down – and still were off.
Finally a wiser old head suggested we bore-sight it, so I pulled the bolt to have a look. With an easily identified target on the 50-yd line (lotta orange dots), glancing above at the scope we could clearly see that the scope’s sight-center was way-off, low and to the right. By now we had a helper in this effort and a few other commentators willing to add insight.
With the rifle held bore-on, we began moving the reticle to center – then after getting on-center the clicky-arrows magically began to operate in the correct arrow-indicating directions…
Hmm… First shot was nice (visible at least and close), but high and left, then the next was nice and on-center but still left, then move it over a bit to the right and X-marks the spot! After (FINALLY!) verifying zero at 50, I leaned over to shoot at the 100-yard target and couldn’t see my first shot. I could see my next shot because it split the 100-yard X. Time to put up a fresh target because things were getting confusing.
IMGP2379x1000When I went up to slap-on a shoot-n-see target, I noticed that my first shot had split the “10” – which had made it hard to see. After that it was just fun banging away, and varying the magnification didn’t seem to move the shot that much.
It’s maybe a 2-minute rifle at worst, but I seemed to get good three-shot groups with two touching, so I think it’s a one-minute gun – but either way that’s plenty for deer and it shoots nice.
Initially I was excited to think the scope was a re-branded Meopta, or Burris – but the weirdness with the turrets and backwards adjustments makes the “Made in China” lable on the box more prominent in my mind. At any rate it it bright and clear and sharp and fog-proof and things that won’t f*k up a hunt or mess-up the shot on a deer, except by me myself.
Incidentally I’ve been shooting Wally-World Winchester Super-X 100-grain Power-Point ammo, nothing special – should I change it? It seems to go to the target well enough.

About NotClauswitz

The semi-sprawling adventures of a culturally hegemonic former flat-lander and anti-idiotarian individualist, fleeing the toxic cultural smug emitted by self-satisfied lotus-eating low-land Tesla-driving floppy-hat wearing lizadroid-Leftbat Califorganic eco-tofuistas ~

14 thoughts on “Old Mauser/New Scope = Adjustments

  1. I learned the hard way to ALWAYS start sighting in a new or rebuilt rifle at 25 yards. Almost impossible to miss the paper at that range and then you can move it out.

    Boresighting works too, if you have a set of boresighters, but they aren’t cheap for good quality. I missed out on a complete set at a gun show because I hemmed and hawed and someone else bought them. On the other hand, I have crap in my garage that I have never used because I grabbed it before someone else could and only later realized that I didn’t really need it.


  2. That Reminds me I just got a Nikon P223 in 3X32. I need to go sight it in properly. What I’m thrilled about is the fact that I can keep both eyes open and see quite well through the scope and down range with the other eye. It also is quite clear out to 400 yards as well as from 20 feet. I have a little laser shaped like a .556 round, but I need to set it up at night, because yu cant see the laser at 25 yards in broad daylight. I tried a red dot sight on the AR, but never could get it adjusted to get it on the paper. Admittedly, it was a cheap sight. Maybe it will work on the crossbow….hmmm?


    • With this new scope I can use both eyes, so that’s pretty neat. My only other scope is a Nikon M-223 with a “point-blank” reticle on an AR – I just haven’t shot it much…


  3. The wife’s Steyr, also a .243, seems to shoot the low-end Remington stuff pretty well, for what it’s worth, and if you’re already sighted for the Winchy Super-X and with good repeatability, I’d say you’re there. At least for this hunt anyway.

    Finding that factory load that makes your Mauser sing might take a while…Hell, you reload, why am I telling you this?

    That reminds me; I really need to reconfirm zero on the .308 before opening day.

    Cheers, and, Waidmanns Heil!


    • Thanks for the feedback! I’m still putting the reloading gear back together. Also reminds me that The Season has already started, and I’d better make that call and get out there! I bought a license and a deer-tag and some Mossy Oak camo at WalMart. 🙂


    • I have a BLR in .243, and both 100 gr. Win and Rem PP factory loads work well in it. I have a pet load for 100 grain BTSP bullets, 36 grains of 4350, gives me a consistent 1.5 inch group at 200 yards….on a bench rest of course : )


  4. Since they first came out, I have used Burris signature rings almost exclusively.


    The nylon inserts don’t scratch the scope finish. They are also available in different thicknesses and can be installed at any orientation around the clock. This can be a life saver if (for example) the screw holes in the gun are mis-aligned.

    A few thought on optics. (Some of this may sound a bit Captain Obvious, but bear with me.) Any time light passes through the surface of a lens, it refracts. The purpose of lens coatings is to minimize this refraction. The key term when shopping optics is Fully Multi-coated. Not fully coated—every lens has at least one coating. Not multi-coated—some of the lenses have multiple coats. Fully Multi-coated.

    When we were kids, the most common binos were 7 power. There is a reason for this. 7 is about the most magnification anyone can hold steady with a free hand. Magnification magnifies everything—mirage, nervous twitch, whatever. Much over 7 power and any gain is offset by movement because the image won’t “hold still”.

    When I worked a retail counter, I would start with new customers by handing them a Zeiss or Swarovski. Of course they would recoil with “I can’t afford that!”. I would reply with “Yeah, I’m with you. I work here and I can’t afford it either. But I want you to look through it anyway so that you will know what world class optics look like. That way you will know what to look for when we look at some of these other brands.” Some lens coatings are proprietary for a reason.

    I use a pair of pre-owned Minox 8 X 42’s that I found NIB on line years ago.


    • The Warne rings are really nice, FREE (fromo my buddy), and give just enough lift/height for the bolt handle to clear the bell.
      8x seems like a good choice for Binocs. 10x is a lot of magnification, and when the trees and brush are thick it may be too-much, plus the peripheral field/FOV goes down as magnification goes up, right?


    • “….plus the peripheral field/FOV goes down as magnification goes up, right?”

      Yes it does. Your depth of focus shortens as well. Look through any 4X scope and you will see that everything past about 10 yards is in focus. As a general rule, variable scopes that go above 10X have a “parallax adjustment” marked in yardage (or meters) so you can focus the scope for a given distance. Depending on your eyes, YMMV with the distance markings.

      The best way to focus a variable scope is to set it to max magnification and then look at a blank surface (wall, blue sky) so the only thing your eye sees is the reticle. Then adjust focus until the reticle is sharp. Now the scope will be in focus at any magnification.

      The scope on my deer slayer is 3.5-10X Swarovski (another hot deal on line years ago). When I’m on the move, I leave is set at 3.5X. I figure if jump something in close, that’s where I’ll want it and there likely won’t be time to change it. If in need to crank it up to see at distance, there most likely will be time.



    • Yeh duh!! I was figuring the old scope was already sighted-in, but the extent to which this needed moment and the lesson learned was valuable! Now what binocs for close-country deer?


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