Fiddling Lugs

Messing around with the old ’43 Colt to see waht’sup. One of my three-man readership (thanx Will!) commented on some measuring instructions, but my brain went opaque when I read them and didn’t know where to begin measuring, so I decided to take some pictures instead and in that way at least noticed this.

Lug #1 is the High Standard that always worked so well until it had the Mystery Illness in the Desert.  Peopel suggested it was weird magazines – I thought not.
And after measuring some of the Winchester white box, it looked like there had been some set-back – and all the Hornady Zombie Special went cycling through it like june-bugs through a goose.
Lug #2 is the Colt WWII standard barrel.  There’s a bit of a difference there in height and clearance, but the link-holes are both the same diameter and not elongated as far as I can tell by visual inspection.  This is the one that operates with a bit of a hitch, probably due to what you can see – or maybe not. If I removed a bit of metal and let the link lie-down flatter…

Meanwhile the mystery continues…
Except I think some of the Metalform magazines were perhaps not quite right in this application (even the 7-round mags), and there also was some ammo failuration on the part of WWB.
Cycling the 7-round Metalforms, one had a first-round hitch while the 8-rounders all cycled flawlessly as long as you didn’t load 8-rounds and/but underloaded it as Louis Awerbuck the great and mighty recommends and as JMB-PBUH intended.

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The semi-sprawling adventures of a culturally hegemonic former flat-lander & anti-idiotarian individualist-imperialist, fleeing the toxic-grade smug emitted by the self-satisfied lotus-eating low-land Tesla-S driving floppy-hat wearing lizadroid-Leftbat Califorganic eco-tofuistas ~ with guns, more guns, off-road motorcycles, moto-guns, snorkeling, snorkel-guns, home-improvement stuff, and probably home-improvement guns.~

13 thoughts on “Fiddling Lugs

  1. Will has the right idea in terms of calculating actual lug engagement, but it’s actually much simpler than the process he’s described.

    Simply get some Plastigauge, same as the engine builders use. Put a strip in the lugs & lockup area, run the slide, remove the Plastigauge, and measure the thickness thereof.

    Repeat as many as five strips if you feel the need, and average the results. You’ll be spot on, no doubt.

    Jim
    Sunk New Dawn
    Galveston, TX

  2. The link can’t move to the position you show in those two photos. The pin “rides” on the curved section, and the vertical part is where it would stop. Stick the slide stop into the link, and swing it. IIRC, the one with the “hitch” in the loading cycle has a drag mark on one of the curved sections, and not the other. Having the pin kiss a high spot, and just on one side, could cause this hesitation. This can be a sudden lift, and twist, of the barrel, in the middle of the cycle. Not good.

    The book is excellent, but you might consider getting pt II, as well. That is the one with all the blue prints and specs for the gun. Unfortunately, they are about $30 ea.

      • This still doesn’t mean it has good engagement in the upper locking lugs. Measuring the distance from the top of the barrel to the top of the slide, with it assembled (this is your engaged dimension, have to have this), and then with it off the frame, is needed to determine how much lug engagement you actually have.
        The difference gives you the amount of non-engagement (not strictly needed, unless you end up needing to change the link length to increase lug engagement).
        Measuring with the barrel slightly slid back, to give you the disengaged dimension, is necessary to figure out the actual lug engagement.

    • I like the rounded/welded follower on the Metalform ones I bought, and they look a *lot* like one of my Ed Brown magazines, but I really like the Tripp Research mags and the KimPro 7-round mags. The old GI gun has ALWAYS worked well with the KimPro’s and the original Colt-Risdon and Colt-Scoville mags.

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