More Range-Cart Madness

With my arm blown-out and in a bursitis-brace, I have some time for drawing and sketching and planning instead of just meaty action. And that is needed. The new 14-inch wheels and solid axle (instead of out-board axle stubs), has changed the structural geometry, and the sliding link/braces need to be re-worked.
The semi parallel red lines (with up-arrow) indicate somewhat the angle that needs improving if I want to have a nice flat shelf for the rifle. The green braces are what needs to grow longer to get there. In fact maybe I should lengthen and re-position the support-arms (green-to-blue) to a more forward location for better support.
This is all good because the taller shelf gets the butt of the rifle up higher and closer to me when I’m standing at rest during the off-hand stage.
But whether the cart will continue to fold-up properly is another question. The new 7/8-inch solid-axle tube is a bit of an impediment to flat-folding as far as the secondary short-braces are concerned. Here’s the cart with the secondary brace/arm in the “open” position:
Here’s the contact point when “closed” or folded – it’s not quite there and the 7/8″ axel-tube (which I slipped on to keep the wheels spaced apart) holds it off by a half inch or so.
1.) So why couldn’t it just pivot on the axel?
2.) Or it needs a dog-leg brace that is also somewhat longer to allow closure?

Also finally, where to put the tactical cup-holders – and it needs a rail somewhere on it right?

ADDED: What the old cart looked like…

About NotClauswitz

The semi-sprawling adventures of a culturally hegemonic former flat-lander and anti-idiotarian individualist, fleeing the toxic cultural smug emitted by self-satisfied lotus-eating low-land Tesla-driving floppy-hat wearing lizadroid-Leftbat Califorganic eco-tofuistas ~

7 thoughts on “More Range-Cart Madness

  1. I was thinking along the lines of clamping a piece of wood along the length, or perhaps a piece of plastic pipe. Maybe a couple of handles could be clamped on. Consider rolling it into the hardware, plumbing, and drawer bracketry aisles of OSH or HD, and start eyeballing stuff. Take a tape measure and calipers. Also check the fence hardware section.

    Would help if you first determine how high the front needs to lift to get the shelf at your desired angle


  2. Originally a golf-thing of some sort. It held three rows of plastic-tubes for irons and various clubs. It's quite old.
    I thought of feet, but don't want to compromise the lower “foot” with further holes and things that would dig into the gravel and dirt.


  3. To get the shelf level, consider putting feet, or blocks, under the ground bar to compensate for the taller wheels.

    Was this originally a golf bag cart?


  4. With those hex shaped dies, I use sockets with ratchets or breaker bars/flex bars when doing the big stuff. That's if my 1/2″ batt drill can't spin it in low gear. (My dad decided I didn't need my industrial 1/2″ drill, so he left it at my sisters' property where he had been building a suspension bridge. It grew legs and walked off.) You can get drill adapters at Harbor Fright to use the 3 common size ratchet tools: 1/4, 3/8, 1/2.

    Whoops, just noticed your photo of socket/breaker bar. You might consider getting a 24″ flex bar for the heavy work. I carry one in my car for lug nuts.

    BTW, the tube over the axle is probably stiffer than the axle itself. That metal in the center doesn't add much stiffness to a bar, just weight, mostly.


  5. Hi Will – Going for strength over weight reduction. The real weight is more what damn-all gets loaded onto the cart! The “old” cart had little stub-axels pinned on the outboard edges only, with no through solid axle that acts as a crossbar.
    The injury suffered is a result of hand-threading, so I'm back to the easy design-phase. 🙂


  6. For weight reduction, you might consider looking for some heavy wall tubing or pipe that you could internally thread to fit the axle. Then cut the axle into two short pieces, thread the cut ends and locktite into the tubing thread. (I'm assuming you don't have a welder).

    Can't tell from the cropped photos whether you would have enough travel if the mounting point was moved to the axle line.

    For cup-holders, check for the gimbal mounted ones for boats.


  7. Nice work!
    I've taken to using a Radio Flyer wagon on my excursions to Angeles Shooting Ranges. It's one of the plastic ones with removable side so it fits in the Jeep.
    Big enough to carry my Lead Sled, a couple of rifles, and a LOT of ammo up to the firing line from where you have to park.
    This gettin' old really SUX!


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