Sticky Wicket or There’s a Hitch in My Gettyup.

Let’s belabor everyone with International Cricket metaphors as an antidote to World Cup Hooliganism.
At any rate the barrel doesn’t ease it’s way down the slide – there’s a sticking point.
It can be pushed past with a rap or a tap, but that doesn’t seem to me to be ideal under the circumstances.

Upon closer inspection it seem associated with the link.

So what’s with the link? One edge of the pin seemed to stand proud.

I got out the calipers and measured them both. The Colt was wider at the link-pin than the High Standard (which easily slid back and forth).
The Colt went into a vise with soft jaws and I put a block under the link to steady it and relieve strain – and gave the pin two taps.
No longer proud above the edge, it slides right good now with no offending bits sticking out or digging a channel in the slide.

Now where’s my 1943 Lubriplate? I gotta put this thing back together.

About NotClauswitz

The semi-sprawling adventures of a culturally hegemonic former flat-lander and anti-idiotarian individualist, fleeing the toxic cultural smug emitted by self-satisfied lotus-eating low-land Tesla-driving floppy-hat wearing lizadroid-Leftbat Califorganic eco-tofuistas ~

4 thoughts on “Sticky Wicket or There’s a Hitch in My Gettyup.

  1. Eyeballing it with a straight edge and calipers the 1/32″ height looks right – and yes it appears a bullet at 45-degrees would have entered the chamber already.
    You have a King barre? Cool!! I have some old King sights, I should post a picture of those.

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  2. Just took a look in Vol II. That bevel on the bottom of the hood is spec'd at 1/32″ hight(perpendicular to the bore), at a 45* angle. I looked at several of my Colt Officers barrels, and they all have it. They appear to be larger than spec, but I didn't measure them. I have a King barrel for an Officers, but it is much smaller, more like a heavy edge break. A barrel for a Brazilian Gov't has just a light edge break.

    I'm pretty sure the bullet hits the roof of the chamber much farther forward, before it pivots to line up with the chamber. If you hold a round at about a 45* angle laying against the barrel ramp, and slide it upwards 'til it hits, that should be about the spot it will impact before it tilts.

    I suspect it is called out to eliminate a burr from manufacturing causing bind on extraction or chambering, and also to allow space for any peening of the hood end for those reasons. Remember, the metalurgy was not as good 100 years ago, and lots of parts were not as hardened as can be done now. There is a much smaller bevel called out for the top edge of the hood, 0.015″ to .025″ wide.

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  3. Hi Will – The books I have are about collecting: the Clawson “Guide to…etc.” (third edition) and the J.C. Harrison “U.S. Pistols & Revolvers” (which some consider less good and even wrong in places). I've seen the Kuhnhausen's books at shows and in magazine advertising – I have no reason not to get them. 🙂

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  4. Do you have Jerry Kuhnhausen's two books on the 1911's? If not, I highly recommend you acquire them for reference purposes. I think they run about $30 each. Volume II has much more data, especially on the original Gov't model. Vol I has modification info, among other stuff. You'll find them at any of the Bay Area gunshows. Never saw any used ones available, which tells me something.

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